Colonel Saab restaurants in Trafalgar Square and Holborn are hosting a kebab festival, showcasing 12 regional Indian kebabs curated by head chef Rajeev Runa. The festival celebrates the evolution of kebabs, a staple of Indian cuisine since the 1200s.
The venue itself feels like a curated museum of Indian heritage; guests often gravitate toward a corner table where they can linger over the menu while taking in the surrounding ambience. The restaurant’s reputation for an “incredible Indian high tea” adds an extra layer of elegance, inviting diners to linger over tea and sweets before diving into the kebab offerings.
A Culinary Journey Through India
The menu features unique dishes such as Awadhi Galouti lamb kebab, Shikandari Raan goat, and Peshawar Chapli kebab. For vegetarians, there’s a mushroom Galouti option. The festival also includes Malai Lobster with creamy coconut milk.
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Each kebab reflects a distinct culinary tradition: the Awadhi preparation hails from the historic courts of Lucknow, delivering a melt-in-the-mouth texture; the Shikandari Raan draws on rustic goat recipes from central India, emphasizing slow-cooked tenderness; the Peshawar Chapli brings the robust spices of the north-west frontier to the plate. The mushroom Galouti mirrors the lamb version’s delicate crumble, offering a plant-based echo of the classic technique, while the lobster dish leverages the richness of coconut milk to balance the seafood’s natural sweetness.
We tried the Mughlai Shabnami Chicken, tender pieces of chicken stuffed with boiled egg and coated in a smooth white glaze, served with mint sauce and corn on the cob. The Banno Kebab, a chicken dish from the Indo-Pakistani subcontinent, was also a highlight, with its distinctive egg wash and yogurt marinade.
The Mughlai Shabnami preparation showcases a meticulous stuffing process where each chicken piece adopts a boiled egg core before being glazed, creating a layered flavor that is complemented by the bright acidity of mint sauce and the sweet crunch of corn. The Banno Kebab’s egg wash forms a subtle crust that locks in moisture, while the yogurt base introduces a gentle tang that softens the spices and prepares the meat for a gentle roast.
Sides and Desserts
To accompany the kebabs, we enjoyed biryani rice and a deep tawny brown dal makhani, which took a day and a half to prepare. The char koni naan bread, a specialty of Hyderabad, was surprisingly tasty, baked with refined flour and seasoned with Kasuri methi.
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The biryani’s fragrant rice carries a blend of aromatic spices that echo the region’s royal kitchens, while the dal makhani’s slow-cooked lentils and kidney beans develop a deep, buttery richness through a patient two-stage cooking method. The char koni naan, more cake-like in texture, benefits from the nutty notes of fenugreek leaves, creating a subtle flavor profile that stands out among traditional breads.
For dessert, the bread pudding was visually enticing, made from bread served in reduced milk and topped with silver leaf. The almond rice pudding offered a more subtle alternative.
The bread pudding’s surface gleams with delicate silver leaf, while its interior carries the warm perfume of saffron, pistachio, and cardamom, delivering a luxurious finish to the meal. In contrast, the almond rice pudding provides a gentle, creamy backdrop that lets the natural sweetness of the rice shine without overwhelming the palate.
Atmosphere and Drinks
Colonel Saab’s Trafalgar Square and Holborn locations feature amazing chandeliers and a collection of art and artifacts adorning the walls, gathered by the Choudhary family over many years. The restaurant is an ode to Colonel Manbeer Choudhary, an Indian Army officer, and his wife, Mrs. Binny Choudhary.
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The chandeliers cast a warm glow that highlights the curated art pieces, each telling a story of the family’s travels and heritage. The walls display artefacts ranging from traditional textiles to historic photographs, creating a narrative that links the culinary experience to India’s broader cultural mix. The tribute to Colonel Manbeer and Mrs. Binny is woven throughout the décor, showing the personal legacy that underpins the restaurant’s identity, while the presence of owner Roop Partap Choudhary ties the past to the present day.
The cocktail and drinks menu is extensive, but we opted for a Punchu tropical fruit mocktail. The kebab festival is a unique opportunity to explore the diversity of Indian cuisine, likely running until late September. It’s a must-visit for anyone who appreciates the richness and complexity of Indian flavors, offering a chance to taste kebabs that are rarely found in London.
The beverage program spans classic Indian-inspired cocktails, aromatic teas, and inventive mocktails like the Punchu, which blends tropical fruit juices to create a refreshing, non-alcoholic option perfect for those who prefer to stay sober while enjoying the feast. This extensive selection ensures that each palate can find a complementary drink, whether seeking spice-laden sips or light, fruit-forward refreshers.